Sunday, January 4, 2009




績試Ultima

加了點補強,副翼面結構SOV比V2明顯差很多, SOV副翼面不須加壓已經twist,翼根>副翼edge>wind tip,不能形成一直線而且情況都幾嚴重,立心加一條厚1mm的flat炭千在edge位,情況明顯改善,成一直線,實際飛行大約trim 1mm就能平飛,之前要trim很多,而飛行反應明顯改善,當然不會及得木機實在及靈敏。
係屋企先set好副翼行程,如下:
上行程:35度
下行程:30度
左右行程完全一樣
試飛環境微風,比上一次試機時細風,打左全副翼,跟上次差不多,有一點偏右航,打右全副翼,比上次好了一點,但偏左航比打左副翼嚴重,問題仍不能解決,有點失望。
設定副翼差動不能解決偏航問題,書中提到可用program mix,但沒有詳細建議的參考數據,而副翼差動5度是書中所講的極限,上次於飛場中設定差動應該有5度以上(沒有帶工具測度數),可能太多關係,令到做hov時架機反應怪怪,所以今次事前係屋企測好確實度數先去飛場試飛。
試完副翼差動效果不太理想,即場設定program mix,副翼mix方向舵,設定如下:
打右副翼>方向舵向右10%
打左副翼>方向舵向左10%
再次試飛,效果有點改善,landing再增至15%,可能太多關係,沒有偏航,但roll得怪怪,不是直線,情況似係書中所講的barrel roll,而barrel roll的形成係因為rolling中的錯誤補舵時間,timing不對,再空中反覆測試,取消mixing,只係用副翼差動,順風和對風時的roll偏航是有所不同,但不能太肯定當中關係,因為令次偏航的情度都有點不同。
書中教打盡全舵副翼去測試roll的直線及偏航,所以一路都跟足書教去打全副翼測試,而Ultima都roll得幾快同劇烈,但今日偶爾試下打一半副翼,發覺偏航問題減少,什至覺得roll得很直,心諗可能係其他問題,諗諗下可能同架機結構有關,檢查機尾部份,發覺尾部用手指輕輕推下已經扭曲,而且左/右推至扭曲的力度不同,可能就係roll左直,roll右偏航問題所在,而且打一半副翼 roll,動作會較為柔順,機身扭曲情度會減低,所以打一半會roll得直d...由於問題係整個機尾結構,並不是加兩支撐係水平翼就能解決,呢個就係EPP/FOAM機的弱點(SOV主翼強度做得相當好),唯有等機會試下第二款機可否做到書中所教既野,等飛25E,想買隻Formosa,等睇Jeff架Zeque,話晒係pattern F3A機種,Duplex都似係失速類的3D機種,都不敢抱太大期望,都要試試。
今日最尾兩排電,放棄測試roll,專注練習harrier,
設定左proportional spoileron(elev>flap) :
拉升舵,左右副翼同時向上65%
Harrier巡航時,效果很好,wing rock明顯減少,不過可以再set大少少,因為不會長時間打全升舵,所以都不會長間時有足夠65%的上升副翼。下次再試試,3D機都係專心玩返D失速類動作比較合適。

Thursday, January 1, 2009



實戰機種:Hokusei Ultima SOV

跟據training manual的提示,練過一輪sim,正式飛實機,
先試飛loop,書中提示方法,將loop圓形當作一時鐘去睇,分為12小時,平飛加速,徐徐拉升舵然後保持一定升舵量,當loop至10點鐘位置時,放平少少升降,讓機由10點鐘位置滑飛至2點鐘位置,再拉回之前的固定舵量,收減動力。
重點為10點前及2點後的舵量要一樣,想loop得圓,10點後放平少少升舵的滑飛。
sim中可練得好好,但用ultima實機,就做不到滑飛部份,不知什麼原因,估計是機種問題。
 
再試roll,不作任何修正,只打副翼杆,測試roll直線的能力,左邊頗直,而右面很明顯roll時偏左,而且情況相當嚴重,以前很難roll直可能就是機身的偏航問題。
 
書中提及用differential aileron travel set up,如roll左,左副翼各上,右副翼向下,以前只知道上下的行程應該一樣,亦不知道differential aileron的用法,一般情況,roll左會向右偏航,roll右會向左偏航,但為解決roll的偏航問題,就是將向下的一端副翼行程比向上的一端減少5度就可
 
將以上設定用於ultima上,左面明顯很直,而右面偏航仍然嚴重,特別時打右副翼全舵,書中教可再用program mix。 ....待續


Sunday, December 28, 2008




最近透過網上海外郵購一套trainning manual...雖然價錢昂貴,但我仍覺得物超所值,要1.2k連運費。比起我買十隻新機更加開心及學到野。
 
粗略全部睇下,最後選擇先睇Park Flying 1-2-3D,因為比較合我衣家飛緊既機種。
 
呢本書對象係決定由park fly入門既人,由握控,機種分類,翼型特性,基本起飛降落,簡單花式飛行,深入至遙控mixing,失速類3D飛行,非常全面,而且教程好有系統,飛得晒呢一本書,已經係見得下人既高手,從而我覺得我衣家先至係真真正正學飛,玩左4,5先有咁既感覺,真係有D慚愧,跟呢套書可謂相逢恨晚。雖然係咁講,但呢本書比我呢D半桶水既所謂老手來講就更加有用,當中有好多錯誤分析,只要可以解決到D好細微細眼既錯誤動作,就會飛得好,分析問題及成因,再針對解決,有D動作加上打數口訣,令動作做起上來節奏更準,更加亮麗。可以話係每一頁都咁精彩,每一頁都學到野。(起碼學到英文)
 
睇完一頁頁秘笈,係時候練功。開始係電腦練sim,已經明顯覺我自己有進步,特別係loop同roll,由於已有少少底子,跟據書上既貼士及錯誤分析,已可對自己技術有所改善,之前陋習太多。
 
至於飛實機,問題就出來...下次再講。


Thursday, September 18, 2008

近期睇到以下文章, 講解Aerobatics飛機基本設定...

You will be low and slow thus each input to your plane can have dire consequences. Practice up high, but get as low as possible as soon as possible but be confident in your flying before getting too low.

The lower (lighter) the wing loading the better. Power is not as important as wing loading. If you flop out of a maneuver, a low wing loading prevents stalling. A light plane will allow you to not lose any altitude when falling out of a maneuver, it simply starts flying immediately without having to build up speed to get flying again. Power is good for show, but it won't save a heavy plane in a bad position like low weight will. As long as you have enough power to maintain a hover, you have enough power.

Get a simulator. Practicing hovering on a simulator is often harder than with many planes. Master it on the computer and you will have an easy time flying your plane.
Set your radio up for lots of throw and experiment. Certain designs do better than others. The bigger the better too. You can get a gyro, once you are an expert, sell it.

Hovering and torque rolling are the most difficult. Once you've practiced on the simulator, practice with your plane. The closer you are to the plane, the easier it is to see and make corrections, but the shorter the distant to destruction. There's no substitute for practice when it comes to 3D. It typically takes a thousand attempts or more at hovering to become good.

Experiment and practice with your plane until you learn everything you can about it.

FIRST STEP: Programming your radio for 3D flying is key to being an awesome 3D pilot. See our webpage on programming your radio first.

SECOND STEP: Trimming out your plane for 3D flying is critical to being an awesome pilot. Right thrust and up thrust must be optimized. Perfect right thrust and up thrust for hovering is different than for sequence flying though they are close. This cannot be changed on a day to day basis, so you need to decide what is most important to you. It's easier to fly sequence with 3D right thrust and upthrust than it is to fly 3D with sequence right thrust and upthrust, so if you are primarily interested in 3D, trim the plane out as follows: On a day when there is little or no wind, fly level to the center of the field at a slow speed, pull to vertical and roll to see the canopy of the plane as if you were going to do a hammer. Let the plane slow to almost a stop. Go to full throttle and let go of the sticks and fly for several seconds. If the plane veers right of left, adjust the rudder to keep the plane vertical. Do this 10 to 20 times to be sure. Then put washers under the engine mount to put in about 1/2 the angle that the rudder is (if the rudder is deflected 4 degrees, change the engine thrust by 2 degrees). Do not line up the cowl yet with the spinner backplate. Do another flying test and make adjustments until the plane goes exactly straight up when you apply throttle. Follow the same guidelines for setting the upthrust. You need upthrust based on the CG of your plane as it hangs from the propeller. If you picked up the prop and let the plane hang vertically as in a torque roll (TR), if all the components inside the plane were in proper position, the plane would point straight up and the engine thrust line would be right through the CG. This probably isn't the case so change the engine thrust (you probably need upthrust) so that the plane doesn't keep falling forward to the belly when in a TR.

THIRD STEP: You should be good with the rudder. Learn rudder skills by following the steps above. You especially need rudder skills when the belly of the plane is towards you. Doing belly in hammer heads is good practice. Fly back and forth across the field inverted and do hammer heads at each end. Keep the uplines straight (using the rudder) and hammer while under control the direction that you choose.

Friday, May 16, 2008

飛左架Hyperion Yak 55 SP 25E 都將近90次升降,最近先掌握到用呢部機做好靚既Flat Spin。
以前睇資料教點做Flat Spin,都係教Rudder and Elevator full travel,油門控制螺旋速度的快慢,但一路都做得唔靚,睇老外飛行片段真係可以做到Spin緊既時候機身保持水平,一路都會諗,係部機做唔到,定係舵面角度唔夠大...記得有次JEFF話睇個老外教打埋副翼,用副翼壓平機身,之前用RUSH試過,都好似唔多有效。

上兩個星期用架25E無意中試到打埋副翼真係可以做得好靚,但打副翼係要調校機身水平,過多過少都唔得,等我試下用文字講下成個動作我係點做...

垂直爬升高度,收油至1/4,用升降舵推架機向下,當機頭指向下時,同時打100%左方向舵和升舵,機身開始進入螺旋,此時機體不會放平,而且下降速度頗高,打少少右副翼,把機身調整壓平,同時慢慢增加油門動力,此時機體會因應副翼的補償而放平,當機體可以放平螺旋時,下降速度亦會減慢,最後當增至全油門時,架機就會好似以螺旋槳為圓心做Spin,加埋螺旋槳的風聲,真的很爽!!如收晒油門去Spin,下降速度應該會效快,機身會效難保持水平,可能無咁靚...

我覺得每部機做Spin或者其他花式,操控上應該會有所不同,以25E既方法,用在Twin Dragon上,就不太有效。大家都只打升舵及方向舵,收油,TD 會比25E做得好,但機身都唔夠平,TD要再多花點時間掌握...

將來EDGE SPIN會更難試到每架機做既方法...SIM又好難幫到手..

Friday, April 18, 2008

喺香港玩飛機花式飛行有啲難度, 一來無適合場地, 二來唔係咁易搵到師父教導及指點...

香港係有正式飛行場地, 不過入會費高昂, 未必咁多飛友願意或有能力負擔...

最後, 學習Aerobatics, 唯有靠自己, 睇多啲, 思考多啲, 練習多啲...

幾個月前, 訂咗兩本書, 專門講解Aerobatics, 有基本入門守則, 亦有理論, 對初學者至中級, 都可以用嚟作參考...

第一本係"Radio Control Aerobatics for Everyone" by Dave Patrick...
呢本書比較舊, 不過佢有講解點樣去調教架機, 例如"Throws and Servo Linkages", "Confirming Proper CG", "How to Trim Your Plane for Optimal Rudder Response"及"Expo, Dual Rates"等...
基本嘅飛行要則亦有講解, 如"Crosswind Takeoffs"及"Landing in Crosswind"...
最精彩嘅當然係解說Aerobatics嘅部份, 包括"Slow Roll", "Stall Turn", "Spin"及"Snap Roll"...
更高深有"Torque Roll", "Rolling Circle", "Lomecevak"及"Tailslide"...
雖然Aerobatics比較舊, 但亦係最基本嘅動作...

另一本係"Ultimate RC Flight Guide"...
呢本書更加精彩, 開頭部份提及"Weather considerations", "Flying on a windy day"及"Trim your model for precision aerobatics"...
由於本書有介紹IMAC及TOC比賽, 所以有講及"Get ready for flight competition"及"Maximize your flight scores"...
至於Aerobatics部份, 都有詳細講解, 如"Straight and level flight", "Cross-box maneuvers", "Snap roll", "Rolling circle", "Tail slides", "Spin", "Torque roll", "Figure-9", "Figure-N", "Shark's tooth"及"Immelmann and split-S"...
另一精彩部份係講解Radio Programming, 對新手相當有用, 老手亦可以溫故知新, 包括"Program a mixer", "How to remove unwanted flight tendencies", "Mixing for flaps", "Compensate for roll and pitch during knife-edge", "Setting up your radio for fun-fly models"及"Offsetting a control"...
最後就係講及一啲技術性題目, "Pull/pull systems", "Balance that model", "Model size, wing area and power loading"及"Balancing 2-, 3- & 4-blade props"...

由於訂書之前搵唔到本書嘅細Topics, 只係得啲大路嘅內容, 所以訂書都只係搏一搏...
以上稍為詳細嘅形容希望可以幫到有意想買參考書嘅機友, 方便作出正確嘅選擇...

除以上兩本書, 我亦會睇美國高手John Glezellis嘅文章, 雖然較為簡短, 但已經導出要旨...
最鍾意佢o個句, "Remember that practice makes perfect, but always remember to have fun!"...

玩飛機Aerobatics就係咁, 好多動作都唔需要好覆雜嘅手指動作, 但要做得好就唔係咁易, 要做得好, 唯有多練習...

Monday, January 21, 2008

無寫咁耐,唔係因為我唔記得有呢個blog,只係諗左好耐有d咩可以寫,一路都係離不開砌機,整機....


有陣子曾經醉心專注玩控入面既功能,將所有認識關於玩3d既mixing都試下set,而放上架rushhttp://picasaweb.google.co.uk/aeroipjan/RushF3AD到試飛,

其實都叫飛過晒,但唔係試得出d咩出來,亦好難有系統咁講解,

最近專注用其中一個mixing去練習,spoilerons,先講下spoileron架機會有咩動作,左右副翼會跟隨升降舵同方向動作,升降舵向上動時,左右副翼亦同時向上動,可以有兩種set法,

1.副翼可跟升降舵同步線性地動作

2.一按掣,副翼移至預先設定的角度

spoileron 適用於harrier,elevator,parachute等特技動作

最近練翼正飛harrier,spoileron用airbrake preset 一打掣就左右副翼同時向上,平飛時使用spoileron,架機會頓時急速垂直下降(機身水平),好似比風壓低一樣,就會做到parachute(降落傘)動作,而做harrier,應該先打升舵將機帶少少攻角飛行,之後再打spoileron,架機就唔會突然急速下降,動作會流暢d,如先打spoileron先,有機會機身下降得太快,升降舵都來唔到反應,之後再打一輪亂舵修正先可進入harrier狀態.....睇老外寫,spoileron就有如跑車上的尾定風翼一樣,將機身壓低穩定,如做harrier時,可以減低wing rock現像,我估意思係主翼唔會左加擺得咁勁,但我試過,有用同無用,只係有好少許的分別,不過要試多d唔同機種先可作實,而有人會問preset幾多角度為基準,老外資料就話視乎機種,無特定,但我試過覺得係睇風力,如對風harrier,升降舵同spoileron都可以set細一點.

做harrier有點少秘訣,升降舵要拉盡,用油門去控制攻角高度,如升降舵不打盡,油門同升降不斷修正配合,很難做得好平穩的harrier,建議副翼要用細角,修平機身時,可以無咁辛苦...

下次再講下其他mixing....可能要等好耐

Thursday, November 15, 2007

雖然Stall Turn可以有好多變化, 但玩得多都會覺得悶...

Spin比Stall Turn困難少少, 因為做得好唔好係同機體及Settings有直接關係, 每一款機種嘅特性都唔同, 唯有多作試驗才可找出最適合嘅配搭...

以下篇文章, 解釋得相當詳細...

SPINS
To spin or not to spin? That's a good question. Most planes will spin, but some are a lot easier to spin than others. Several factors affect an aircraft's ability to spin, but for a conventional plane, you can generally reduce them to CG (balance) and surface throws. Some aircraft don't recover easily from spins; in fact, some don't recover at all! So, before you start to spin your pride and joy, please follow the designer's set-up instructions carefully. A spin occurs when an aircraft is stalled then autorotates around its CG toward earth at a constant speed. If the speed builds, the aircraft doesn't stall, it spirals. Some airplanes spin in a fairly nose-down attitude, others in a flatter attitude. Many spin at about a 45-degree angle.

YOUR FIRST SPIN
Let's assume that you've set up your aircraft properly. Now climb to plenty of altitude (200 feet or more), point the nose into the wind, and cut the power to idle. You may want to climb slightly, as this helps to slow the aircraft more rapidly. As you slow down, you'll need an increasing amount of up-elevator to maintain altitude - until either the aircraft stalls or you run out of elevator and the aircraft mushes down, i.e., the airplane is still flying, but it's descending with the nose slightly down and full up-elevator. If it mushes, this means you haven't stalled, so it won't spin.

There are two adjustments you can make to help the airplane spin. Either add more elevator throw, or move the CG aft, i.e., toward the tail. I usually start by adding elevator throw in small increments until the plane stalls or becomes too pitch-sensitive at high speed. If your elevator is as sensitive as you like it and it still won't stall, try adding tail weight gradually. Eventually, with enough elevator and tail weight, your plane should stall. Remember, too much tail weight can mean disaster, so be careful.

Not all airplanes behave the same way after they've stalled. Some drop wingtips first and enter unprovoked spins. To recover, you must "unstall" the wing (I'll discuss this later). When your plane is near a stall, its air speed is low; under these conditions, rudder is the most powerful control. For example, you can use it to help your plane overcome a left-dropping wing so that it drops the right wing and enters into a right turning spin.

HERE WE GO
Now that you can stall the aircraft properly, you're ready to enter the spin. At the moment of stall, as the nose falls past the horizon, apply full rudder and aileron in the same direction, and maintain the full up-elevator. Generally, left-turning spins are easier to enter than right-turning spins because the engine's torque can assist.

If the plane spun as defined, great! If not, you probably need more rudder throw. Don't be shy; go to high rate and add rudder until your plane spins properly. In some planes, I've found that additional aileron can help as well. (Contrary to what some people claim, it can really make the difference.) There's a fairly small margin between an aerobatic setup and instability, so make changes to your aircraft gradually.

NOW WHAT?
To recover from a spin, simply let go of the controls, and the autorotation should stop. The nose will point toward the ground, and air speed will be very low because the plane has just recovered from a stalled condition. At the moment of recovery, speed will consequently increase, but don't immediately pull up-elevator, or you may accidentally start another stall/spin. Let the air speed build slightly, and then carefully apply up-elevator to recover from the dive.

If you let go of the controls and the spin continues, you have a real problem. Before you give up, try some down-elevator and, if you can remember, rudder that's opposite to the rotation of the spin. That should do it. If it doesn't, hold down-elevator and opposite rudder, and add some power. If these methods don't work, start planning to repair your pride and joy. You gave it your best shot! The good news is, if it's in a true spin, it will descend fairly slowly, which can minimize the damage.

VARIATIONS
The spin you've just read about is an "inside spin from upright." An outside spin from upright requires down-elevator at the stall point (along with full opposing rudder and aileron), so that the plane will "pitch through" the horizon and keep going until it's in an inverted position. It will then be in an inverted spin. The spin entry is described as "outside" because it requires down-elevator to perform (just like an outside loop).

Your plane should be able to perform these other interesting spin variations with the same setup that enables it to do a conventional spin. If it can't, carefully adjust your aircraft as noted above, but also keep in mind that not all aircraft can perform all maneuvers.

INVERTED SPINS
This time, approach from inverted, and stall as you did from upright, but use down-elevator to stall. Once the plane has stalled, add full rudder, opposite aileron and full down-elevator. Recovery is the same as in an upright spin, except you'll recover to inverted using down-elevator. It's often easier to enter an inverted spin, but it can also be more difficult to recover from one, so beware. Also, if you must apply rudder to get out of an inverted spin, apply it in the same direction as the spin.

FLAT SPINS
Flat spins are really fun to do and watch, but your plane often must be set up on the edge of instability to perform a true flat spin. A flat spin is "more developed," i.e., the plane rotates and descends more slowly, and its angle in relation to the horizon is flatter. Some planes will develop flat spins from conventional spins after a few turns, but they generally must be coaxed. (I've also found that it's easier to flat-spin from inverted than from upright.) To coax your plane into a flat spin, enter a spin, then try to remove aileron input slowly, or even add opposite aileron. A plane I recently flew required opposite aileron and then a slow application of down-elevator to coax it into a flat spin, but it was a beautiful flat spin! Sometimes you have to experiment to find the right combination. A very important note: flat spins can be extremely difficult to recover from, so perform your first ones with plenty of altitude.

KNIFE-EDGE
The unusual-looking knife-edge spin is becoming more popular. Basically, instead of spinning around the nose, the plane spins around a wing tip. I've found that the easiest way to enter this maneuver is after you've established a conventional spin. Then, simply apply opposite rudder. On some planes, it only seems to work from inverted, but one thing is for sure: you'll lose altitude very rapidly, so start with plenty of height! You can also change the type of spin as you perform it, e.g., upright to inverted to knife-edge. Just remember the recovery technique you'll need to get out of your fancy spin!

Thursday, November 8, 2007

IMAC has been around for over 24 years, and its original intent and premise have managed to remain fundamentally intact for nearly a quarter of a century because of their simplicity.

IMAC's goal is simple: "To duplicate full-scale aerobatics with RC aircraft in a realistic manner that is challenging for the contestants as well as interesting for the spectators."

Basically, IMAC competition is broken into two completely separate events: "Compulsory" and "Freestyle". Scoring for each is kept separate, and you do not have to enter both to compete. By far the most popular is "Compulsory" - a set of 14 to 16 maneuvers grouped together to form a sequence. These sequences are changed yearly and often reflect the maneuvers flown by the full-scale Inter-national Aerobatic Club (IAC). Scoring is based on a perfect 10 for each maneuver, with downgrades for Tournament of Champions.

Here are some tips and insights on how to begin flying IMAC.

The beginning category is called "Basic". Basic is the first 10 maneuvers of the Sportsman sequence.

Take a minute to review the 1998 sequence and follow along.

Start by entering into the wind, wings level. Call the box to the judges by saying, "In the box!"

1. Loop:
Fly to the center of the box (straight in front of you) and perform an inside loop. The loop should be symmetrical, centered and should end at the same place as you started it. Make the loop at least 100 feet in diameter, or it will present terribly. Exit straight and level and head to the end of the box for the next maneuver.

2. Hammerhead (also called a Stall Turn):
From level flight, pull vertical and head straight up. Pull back on the power. As the plane approaches zero airspeed, apply full rudder in either direction to allow the plane to rotate around its center of gravity. After the plane rotates and begins heading downward, slowly release the rudder. Retrace your upward line and exit with the same radius as you entered. Exit straight and level and head to the center of the box for the next maneuver.

3. Two Continuous Rolls:
Before you reach the center, apply aileron to begin rolling. Your goal is to have the plane cross the center pole as you begin your second roll. As you watch your plane roll, feed down-elevator when inverted and up-elevator when upright to keep your plane from losing elevation. The roll rate is not important, but maintaining heading and elevation is.
Note: these rolls are continuous, and stopping anytime during the maneuver will earn you a zero! Exit straight and level and head to the end of the box for the next maneuver.

4. Immelmann:
Use the same technique as you used with a full loop, but immediately after executing the half loop, roll to upright without losing heading or elevation. Maintain this higher elevation and begin reducing throttle for your next maneuver.

5. Two-Turn Spin:
As you approach the center pole, reduce throttle to idle and begin holding the nose up with your elevator. The pitch of the plane is not important as long as you don't gain altitude. Your goal is to have the plane stall right over the center pole. When the nose finally falls, begin applying full aileron and rudder in the same direction to induce a spin. The direction of the spin is not important. Just before you have completed two full revolutions, let go of the stick and recover heading straight down. After establishing your downline, pull level and exit. Head to the end of the box for the next maneuver.

6. Half Cuban-8:
As you approach the edge of the box, pull back on thestick and perform 5/8 of an inside loop. As you approach the 5/8 mark, begin feeding in down-elevator to establish an inverted 45-degree downline; calculate how far it is to your entry altitude and roll upright when you are halfway there. As you approach your entry altitude, apply up-elevator to exit with the same radius as you drew during the loop portion. Maintain wings level and head to the other end of the box for the next maneuver.

7. Humpty Bump Half Roll Down:
As you approach the end of the box, pull vertical with a radius you can easily duplicate throughout the maneuver. Head straight up long enough to establish a vertical line, and perform a half loop at the top with the same radius as used to enter the maneuver. Don’t forget to reduce throttle to idle before you pull over the top, or you will be screaming toward the ground. As you begin heading straight down, calculate at which altitude you’ll want to exit, and perform a half roll when you are halfway there. Now end the maneuver with the same radius, heading back toward the center of the box, wings level.

8. Hammerhead, 1/4 Roll Up, 1/4 Roll Down:
Immediately before approaching the center pole, pull vertical with a gradual radius and head straight up. Decide how tall you want to make the maneuver, and when you are halfway there, roll the plane 1/4 revolution.
Note: you can roll in either direction, but the preferred method to make the maneuver easier is to be looking at the top of your airplane instead of the bottom. Now, cut the throttle as you approach the top of the maneuver, and perform a hammerhead as previously described. After the hammerhead, proceed straight down and 1/4 roll in the opposite direction at exactly the same location as before. Continue straight down and exit with the same radius and altitude as you entered. Fly to the end of the box, wings level for the next maneuver.

9. Humpty Bump, Half Roll Up:
This is basically the same as the other Humpty, except you roll on the way up instead of on the way down. Be sure to keep the radiuses the same throughout the maneuver. Head to the end of the box, wings level for the next maneuver.

10. Half Reverse Cuban-8:
Way before you approach the end of the box, pull the plane to a 45-degree upline and decide how high you want to make the maneuver. Hold the 45; when you are halfway to the top of the maneuver, roll to inverted, apply a little down-elevator to maintain the 45-degree line and continue upward. When you have reached the top, reduce the throttle and begin your 5/8 inside loop. Begin with a radius that will ensure that you end up at the altitude where you started. End the maneuver with wings level and call, "Out of the box!".

Tuesday, October 9, 2007

我有習慣收集各種數據, 以備不時之需...

在新手階段, 對槳嘅運用唔係咁明白...
用唔同嘅摩打, 知道需要配合唔同嘅槳...
但推力是多少? 負載電流會唔會過大令摩打Overload? 摩打轉數及空速? 應該點樣選擇? 以甚麽為依據?
一大堆問題, 真係一籌莫展...

為解決以上嘅疑慮, 決定自製一個靜態推力量度器...

材料 :
- 廚房電子磅
- 3mm Plywood
- 三角木條
- 電子變速器
- 接收器
- Eagle Tree MicroPower eLogger
- Eagle Tree Brushless RPM Sensor

製作好簡單, 用Plywood做Motor Mount, 最重要係上下兩塊一定要平行...
由於靜態推力係用壓磅法量度, 所以隻槳安裝嘅方向要稍為注意, 運轉向前方向一定要向下...

駁上eLogger及RPM Sensor, 電壓、電流及轉速等數據就可以記錄低, 只要專心留意電子磅數據就可以...
另外, 亦可加上Thermal Sensor, 量度摩打温度, 測試數據更為全面...

我亦特別保留一排1800mAh 16C電池, 專為測試摩打用, 令數據更為公平...

因為安全理由, 唔用Servo Tester控制電子變速...
用接收器控制電子變速, 測試時相距摩打四至五呎, 萬一有意外, 都無咁易俾隻槳打到自己...

用同一個摩打, 不同Size或Pitch嘅槳, 靜態推力及轉速都會唔同...
我會用摩打廠方嘅建議為依據, 測試及記錄唔同槳嘅特性, 為日後作為參考...









以上為例:
APC 9x6E出到950g靜態推力, 10x5E就出到1050g...
但轉速就以9x6E為高, 加上Pitch較10x5E高, 所以空速較快...
另一樣要注意就係負載電流, 10x5E比9x6E耗電, 所以要留意摩打温度及廠方所訂嘅最大容許負載電流...
要點樣選擇槳? 因人而異, 唔同機種或唔同機手, 要求都唔同...
要機速, 選9x6E...
要推力, 選10x5E...
要更高推力玩3D, 可選負載電流更高嘅10x4.7SF...
所以一定要定下目標, 才可以揀到最適合嘅配搭...